Channel Island Tour

A Channel Islands Tour

By Bill Thomas & Paul Romero

“When you try to pick out anything by itself, you find it hitched to everything else in the universe.” John Muir          

            Through the mist, the craggy outline of Santa Cruz Island, one of eight under the auspices of the Channel Islands National Park, slowly came into focus. Nineteen contemporary, well equipped, amateur adventurers were about to begin their own collective exploration following the initial wake started by Juan Rodrigo Cabrillo in 1542.  They had boarded Island Packers’ double-decked vessel bound for Santa Cruz Island, also the provider of passage to Anacapa Island the following day. The group had just left Ventura having been prepared for their island visits by the National Park’s Director of Interpretation and Public Relations, Yvonne Menard, who had shared information, provided maps, brochures, newsletters, and an authoritative magazine to her receptive audience at the Visitor’s Center, which also includes a bookstore, a native polenta garden, displays of marine aquatic life, exhibits from each island, and a 25-minute park film.

            The one-hour ocean voyage, with marine life unfortunately in hiding, took them to Scorpion Cove where they docked and were met by their guide, David Chubb, a park volunteer. He shared an overview of safety guidelines and an orientation to the island, introducing its ranching heritage consisting of still standing ranch houses, barns, blacksmith and saddle shops, wineries and a chapel, relics of the 1800’s and 1900’s. As David was discussing the progress on the restoration of island structures, including endangered plants and animals, a small fox emerged from the tall grass and approached the group, all of whom were amazed at how docile the fox acted. David explained that since the animal had no natural predator on the island, it had no fear. At one time, he explained, the fox species were endangered because of the Golden Eagles that inhabited the island. They, in turn, were removed and replaced by Bald Eagles that fed on fish. Consequently, the fox population has grown and flourished. So has it been with the coming and going of kelp forests, pigs, rats, sheep, horses, cows, pelicans, reptiles, cats, rabbits, oil spills, film shootings, smuggled liquor, and Chumash Indians.

            The two-mile hike around the island, though at times challenging, was worth climbing the several hills to partake of the uncommon and varied vistas. The once heavily grazed Santa Cruz Island is still slowly recovering from the immense sheep population. The hillside’s former grasslands have been replaced with plants native to the island, while ice plant, used to stabilize erosion, is still being eradicated by the park service. Further removal of non-native plants and animals is intended to bring all of the islands back to a natural balance so the public can again enjoy them in all their natural splendor.

            After the boat trip and return to their comfortable lodging at the Country Inn and Suites in Port Heuneme, the weary pioneers enjoyed a lively reception and a Thai dinner.

            Boarding the same boat the following day, the renewed sea goers motored 14 miles to “bird island,” Anacapa. Debarking, they labored up the five flights of 156 steps to meet their guide for the day, volunteer Doug Williams. Doug led the group over a relatively flat one-mile trail overlooking the “bird island’s” 700 acres, featuring thousands of western seagulls occupying the island as their nesting place. The leisurely walk took them through the colorful coreopsis blossoms with vivid yellow bouquets and low-lying native plants. Doug described unique features of the three distinct islets, noting that, over the years, waves had constantly eroded the volcanic island, creating towering sea cliffs, caves, and natural bridges, such as the forty-foot-high Arch Rock, the park’s symbol. The biggest problem he emphasized, “There’s no fresh water.”

            Having digested a tasty box lunch, group members walked to various vantage points; took photos;  inspected the exteriors of the five standing structures, including a modest visitors’ center and an abandoned lighthouse; queried their tour guide, and conversed amongst themselves or with the friendly gulls surrounding them. The voyage back to Ventura was enhanced by the multitude of dolphins racing along the sides of the boat. After hugs, handshakes, and handwaves, the tour concluded; the Channel Island adventurers departed.

What were the highlights for these island explorers? Ron Ruef, Community Services Commissioner from Mission Viejo, accompanied by his middle school son Brian, summarized his positive experiences: “I especially enjoyed the people on the trip.” Steve Behmerwohld, Parks, Recreation & Senior Services Commissioner from the City of San Juan Capistrano was enthralled with Anacapa’s history and the enormous western seagull habitat. George Caravalho, President of San Clemente’s Friends of San Clemente Foundation, said, “Anacapa provided a beautiful view of the islands. At the tip, it was so peaceful, almost like the beginning of planet earth. I could almost see the islands rising up out of the ocean – It was awesome: beautiful scenery, salt air of the Pacific, boat rides, and knowledgeable guides.” Tony Foster of Oceanside appreciated the pre-tour lecture and helpful guides. From Dana Point’s Ed Neely, “It was a wonderful weekend. The arrangements made and hotel were excellent.  Island Packers did a great job in getting us to and from the islands. Kudos to those who coordinated the whole adventure.” He’s looking forward to further trips. “Anacapa was a neat geological venture, and I enjoyed the gulls,” said Ilse Bynes of San Juan Capistrano. Everyone was impressed by the friendly fox.

 2010 celebrated the Channel Island National Park’s 30^th anniversary as nation’s 40^th national park. It is one of the few national parks to have a university named after it. Educationally, some 10,000 young people visit the islands each year. Sometimes called the North American Galapagos, 10% of the plant life and 30% of animals are endemic. California brown pelicans, island fox, island scrub-jay, pinnipeds, sea lions, and western gulls are dependent on the islands for breeding and raising their young. Isolation has protected them from much of the development and human impacts that have drastically reduced natural ecosystems on the mainland. Wave-cut platforms are important habitats for marine life including clams, snails, sea urchins, sea stars, crabs, and barnacles. The Park developed an underwater dive program 25 years ago. For recreation, water-oriented enthusiasts, and sightseers, swimming, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, whale and sea lion watching, hiking, and rock-climbing are readily available. Even within a day’s travel of over 20 million people because of the privacy provided by the Pacific Ocean.

 Channel Islands park includes five islands adjacent to California’s coast: Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa Barbara. These islands harbor the biologic diversity of nearly 2,500 miles and are home to over 2,000 terrestrial plants and animals, of which 145 are found nowhere else in the world. Even within a day’s travel of over 20 million people, because of the privacy provided by the Pacific Ocean, this is the least visited of all of America’s national parks and will always be a place where you can step back in time and experience what California’s coastline once was.

The purpose of these tours sponsored by the California Association of Park & Recreation Commissioners & Board Members (CAPRCBM) is to provide unique experiential educational opportunities for its members, professionals, and park aficionados. Previous successful tours to state beaches and attractions along the California coast and San Diego’s significant parks has introduced participants to such ideas as the broader use of volunteer services in lieu of staff, environmental concerns, alternative fundraising activities, cost-savings measures, rise of non-profit organizations, and other useful learning opportunities. Future tours in the planning stages include California’s gold country and Yosemite in October, and weekend educational visits to parks in Santa Barbara, Catalina, and Fort Bragg.

Those interested in further tour information may contact caprcbm@sbcglobal.net or call (916) 799-5908